Det har kommit på tal nu några gånger. Överskottet. Spillet.
Vi har sett att det finns en marknad för textilsopor, som bl a återvinns till nya fibrer.
Det finns också som vi nämnt medvetet överskott, det antal meter som måste produceras för att vara säker på att man får x antal felfria meter att sy av.
En generell procentsats är ca: 5%. Om man har mycket stor produktion minskar procenten och om man producerar mindre kvantiteter ökar den.
Sedan har vi spillet som är allt från klippspill till varpändar, trassel, och stadkanter som klipps bort i moderna vävstolar. Detta spill kan variera mellan 4-10 %.
På den tiden när man bara handvävde tyger var spill mycket mycket mindre.
Till detta kommer det osynliga spillet dvs. trådar, trassel, fibrer och ludd som försvinner i tvätt- infärgning och andra processer längs vägen.
Den totala procentsatsen för allt spill är 25-35%.
För färdiga plagg finns också en marknad, då klipps märkningarna bort från plaggen innan de säljs.
(undrar vad som sker med plagg som blir kvar på klädgalgarna hos de stora kedjorna hos oss? Det som inte säljs)
Det är också ett faktum att material bränns, läggs i syra för att vissa företag inte vill bli förknippade med sekunda vara eller för att de inte skall hamna i fel marknad. Till fel pris.
Detta sker i alla producerande länder, även förstås i Sverige, på kundernas begäran.
-Vi vet idag mer om hur mycket energi som går åt i textil produktion, hur krävande de olika stegen är för miljön och att många människor världen över tillbringar stor del av sitt liv i hårt arbete inom produktionen.-Trots att vi från ett kund- och formgivarperspektiv kan förstå varför det sker, så känns den här vetskapen idag magstark.
På frågan om det finns intresse av att förädla sitt eget produktionsspill blir svaret att 'självklart', om det finns en möjlighet att få ut ett bättre pris av spillet finns det alltid ett intresse. Ett mycket intressant och utmanande svar som vi förstås går igång på!
It has been a topic a few times now. Excess. Waste.
We have learnt that there is market for textile waste, which is among other things recycled into new fibers
There is also as we mentioned the deliberate excess, the No. of meters produced to secure a non-faulty amount of fabric to stithc the ready-made product. An average of 5% surplus production is mentioned. If the production is large the percentage decreases, if the production is less it increases.
Then we have the waste from cutting, the first meters of a warp, the warp ends and selvedges. This type of waste together adds up to 4-10 %. In the times when fabrics were mostly hand-woven the wastage was much less.
In addition to this there is the invisible waste ie. odd threads, fibers, nap and dust which disappears in finishing processes such as dyeing, washing, calendering and other manufacturing process
The total collected amount for all waste is about 25-35 %.
For ready made clothes there is also market, where labels and brands are removed before they are sold on a local market. (Makes us wonder what happens with clothes from a rack in our stores? the clothes that are not sold)
When asked the question if there is any intrest for a factory of refining their own waste the answer is 'of course' If there is a way to increase the price of waste there will always be an interest.
A very interesting and challenging answer which get our minds going!
We have learnt that there is market for textile waste, which is among other things recycled into new fibers
There is also as we mentioned the deliberate excess, the No. of meters produced to secure a non-faulty amount of fabric to stithc the ready-made product. An average of 5% surplus production is mentioned. If the production is large the percentage decreases, if the production is less it increases.
Then we have the waste from cutting, the first meters of a warp, the warp ends and selvedges. This type of waste together adds up to 4-10 %. In the times when fabrics were mostly hand-woven the wastage was much less.
In addition to this there is the invisible waste ie. odd threads, fibers, nap and dust which disappears in finishing processes such as dyeing, washing, calendering and other manufacturing process
The total collected amount for all waste is about 25-35 %.
For ready made clothes there is also market, where labels and brands are removed before they are sold on a local market. (Makes us wonder what happens with clothes from a rack in our stores? the clothes that are not sold)
It is also a fact that material is brunt put in acid because some brands do not want their brand to be associated with a faulty product or because they do not want their product to find a way to the wrong market. To the wrong price.
This happens i all producing countries, of course also in Sweden, on the producers demand.
- Today we know more about how much energy which is required producing textiles, how demanding the different steps in manufacturing is on environment and that many people around the world spend a great deal of their lives working hard in producing these.
Even if we from a designers and customer point of view have some understanding for this, the knowledge is hard to digest.
This happens i all producing countries, of course also in Sweden, on the producers demand.
- Today we know more about how much energy which is required producing textiles, how demanding the different steps in manufacturing is on environment and that many people around the world spend a great deal of their lives working hard in producing these.
Even if we from a designers and customer point of view have some understanding for this, the knowledge is hard to digest.
When asked the question if there is any intrest for a factory of refining their own waste the answer is 'of course' If there is a way to increase the price of waste there will always be an interest.
A very interesting and challenging answer which get our minds going!
